About the Basque Country

After just half an hour in the Basque Country I already noticed that a lot of conversation revolves around food: How to make the perfect fish omelet or spicy stews, where to find the freshest tapas, which fish are in the season and - most importantly - where and what to eat...

Markets

When it comes to food, I love shopping at local markets. It''s also a great way to pick up the language. But what I most like about the markets is the way they keep people in touch on a regular basis. We lost that at home: Modern hypermarkets aren’t the best place for a friendly chit-chat.

The market in San Sebastian has all the attractions of an exciting exhibition. So many choices, but what to cook? Fresh vegetables, delicious sausages highly spiced with pimiento or ham from the black pig that spend his day foraging in the mountains.

Gastronomic society

Gastronomic societies were founded by men who wanted to cook for their families. Once upon a time there was no place for men in the kitchen. Imagine it: men who worked in hot factories or on fishing boats, running home desperate to cook lunch, but being told that it was not their place to do so!

So they formed their own society, a society where women were forbidden to cook. And it wasn''t a weak macho excuse, it was taken very seriously and the members learned from each other.

I was touched by the atmosphere in these Txokos, in English ''corner'' or ''small place''. They really do love and care for what they are doing. There is no sense of ownership; no-one says "that''s my knife" or "those are my ingredients". The equipment and ingredients are free to use. This could be an alternative form from Christianity, and even a way of life. Sharing, cooking, eating, smiling, singing and really going for it in a very pleasant way.

Pintxos

In the Basque Country it is usual to - after the siesta - dig out your best outfit, step out for a breath of air and observe as much as you can from your fellow women or, in some cases, men. This is a ritual played out with great dignity since time immemorial. And off the record, it''s also the perfect way to whet your appetite.

Dinner in Spain doesn''t usually happen until half past nine, or even ten o''clock. But for me, it really starts around eight with a glass or two and then pintxos, the Basque word for pinchos, another name for tapas. Even children and grandparents can share in the fun.

Red toasted peppers prepared with garlic, small anchovies marinated in salt and vinegar, fish omelet, and so on. You can even be poor and still eat like a king because these small courses only cost a few euros each.

There are countless pintxos in all the bars; it didn''t take me long to get addicted to the small courses. If I see such a bar, I already know where my body is going to take me.

Traditionally you have a couple of pintxos in one bar, and then you go to another bar and a little bit later you realize that there are still other bars down the street. You could describe it as gastronomical detective work, just more addictive.

Always keep in mind that these pintxos are only so tasty because they aren''t made at nine o''clock in the morning and served till they run out. They are made every couple of minutes, to keep the costumers happy with fresh pintxos. The kitchens here never stop and the bar owners know that they would soon be out of business if they didn''t serve pintxos in the way they deserve.