Life

Shortly before midnight on Tuesday 19th January, hundreds of curious first-timers and loyal die-hards will gather to witness the start of the most important, if peculiar, celebration on the San Sebastian calendar.

From midnight to midnight on 20th January every year, come what may, men and women dressed in military or chefs' uniforms perform a drum march through the streets of this seaside town in commemoration of a time when local residents supposedly mocked parading Napoleonic troops by banging loudly on cauldrons.

Despite its seemingly parodic origins, however, the people of San Sebastian take this ritual drum-banging - known as the "Tamborrada" - very seriously.

Origins

What is best known about the history of the Tamborrada is that little is known for certain, due to a lack of records from the time of its creation. There is, however, no lack of theories regarding its origins:

Many link the birth of the Tamborrada to a time when San Sebastian was a stronghold dominated by Napoleonic troops. It is certainly likely that bakers and female water carriers mocked the troops by striking barrels or cauldrons in imitation of military drumming.

What is certain is that by the nineteenth century, the spirit of carnival had taken root in the celebrations for San Sebastian Day. Several groups had formed, such as the Valencian Blind People's Masquerade and the Gardeners Group, in 1817, and the Coppersmith group the following year.

The Tamborrada was probably created in 1836 at the height of the Carlist Wars. In 1861, it gained a significant boost thanks to the composition of Raimundo Sarriegui's "Marcha de San Sebastián" (San Sebastian March) which remains the festival's anthem to this day.

Over the years

In 1932, articles criticizing the use of masks on the 20th - 'which turn the festivity into a carnivality' - came up in the local press. By then, however, the Tamborrada was a different matter and rituals that began as derisory fun had passed into lore.

Over the decades the fiesta has grown and testament to that is the increasing number of participating adult tamborradas: In 1967, there were 10 Tamborrada groups; in 1992, 54; by 2000 there were 82 and by 2010 more than 100 groups took part.

Despite the strict adherence to certain traditions, the Tamborrada has also evolved throughout its lifetime. Years ago all Tamborrada groups were formed by men but today, though many of them are still men only due to the statutes of their societies, there are mixed and even female tamborradas.

The Golden Drum Award, Medals for Civic Merit and prizes for the International Firework Contest (that took place during the previous year's "Semana Grande") were also incorporated into the celebrations and now form an important part of the day's proceedings.

Arguably the most delightful part of the whole celebration kicks off at 12 midday with the Children's Drum Parade, when thousands of girls and boys dressed as military drummers fill the city centre as they march through the streets in perfect order.

The Tamborrada was originally for grown-ups, but in 1927 the Euskal-Bilera society decided to introduce a company of child drummers. One of the day's most emotional and memorable events, it nowadays brings together around 4,500 boys and girls, forming 44 companies, promoted for the most part by the city's schools. Each school has its own uniforms, usually arrayed in bright colours.

Before the parade sets off, the children gather in front of the Town Hall where they are saluted by their officers, elected each year by drawing lots. The Children's Tamborrada then begins with a combined performance of Sarriegui's 'San Sebastian March'.

On the eve
The San Sebastian fiestas are intense. Celebrations kick off on the evening of the 19th with a good dinner. Reserving is a must, as restaurants and gastronomic societies soon fill up.

By dessert time Raimundo Sarriegui's catchy melodies start to sound through the loudspeakers, compelling diners to accompany them with confident drumbeats. Those without drums beat on wooden boards.

The city speeds up its pace towards midnight and the first tamborradas - in charge of hoisting the flags - start to appear around the city. (Within each society, the drummers generally play shifts of two hours at a time).

The 24 energetic hours of San Sebastian Day are framed by two solemn moments: When the clock strikes twelve, the city flag is hoisted (or lowered) and each company plays a rendition of the 'San Sebastian March', the most serious piece of the drummer's repertoire and the only one with lyrics.

There are flag hoistings in various squares and gastronomic societies, but the most important one takes place in the Plaza de la Constitución.

This central location in the Parte Vieja (Old Town) is always teeming with people who bounce to the rhythm of the Tamborrada, played every year by the Gaztelubide Society. This society is an amalgamation of all the tamborradas, who send one representative from each of their gastronomic societies.